Rhinestones have a glittering past. Originally rhinestones where
referred to Czechoslovakian or Bohemian glass dating as far back as the
13th century in Bohemia and the Czech Republic. Both have a history
steeped in beautiful hand blown glass as well as molded and cut glass.
By 1918 glass was no longer limited to functional items.
Czechoslovakian glass began to make its appearance in dazzling and
brilliant jewelry. This Czech glass became known as rhinestones.
Rhinestones were manmade gems from highly refined glass. By using
various metals the glass was colored to the desired shade. It was then
pressed into molds. Each stone was then ground and polished by machine,
resulting in a brilliant glass stone. Often the stones were foiled on
the back which increased their brilliance.
Today, the same refining process is still used. You will often here
rhinestones referred to as paste. Originally paste was referred to a
glass stone that made of ground glass which was molded and then melted,
producing an opaque dense glass frosted stone. Paste had many air
bubbles and swirl marks. The high lead content glass was then polished
and faceted, and set on either copper or silver resulting in a
brilliant stone. Today the term paste usually refers to rhinestones. In
Europe rhinestones are often referred to as paste, strass, and
diamante.
Austria is another area with a history in rhinestone production. In
1891 Daniel Swarovski created a new glass cutting machine which quite
literally revolutionized the jewelry business. This machine could cut
faceted glass, producing finely finished product in a very short time.
Prior to this invention it would take a very long time for each stone
to be hand cut and finished. Swarovski’s background in glass making,
combined with his glass cutting machine soon found him producing
rhinestones with a lead content of over 30%.
The brilliance of these rhinestones was superior to anything seen on
the market. Swarovski wasn’t content with his invention and the best
rhinestones ever seen. His next invention was once again transforming
to the jewelry industry. He created a vacuum plating for the backs of
the stones with silver and gold, reducing the need for hand labor.
Still today Swarovski rhinestones are recognized as the highest quality
in the industry. Over 80% of rhinestone jewelry manufactured in America
use Swarovski rhinestones.
Rhinestones have played an important role in costume jewelry for
hundreds of years. It is used to enhance and accent, and sometimes
rhinestones will provide the entire design. During the Victorian period
common motifs for jewelry included snakes, flowers, and hands most
often adorned with rhinestones.
The 1890s were a time for extravagant jewelry heavily adorned with
rhinestones. As time moved forward designs became simpler with figural
shapes once again making their fashion statement. However this time
they were small and more elegant with small rhinestone accents.
During the Edwardian period extravagance had made a comeback with
diamonds and pearls being the focal point. Once again rhinestones were
in heavy use, often used to imitate the real thing.
During the 1920s fashions were rapidly changing. Dresses had gone from
fitted to a looser more comfortable style. Two distinct styles occurred
during this era – the feminine style and the androgynous style. Jewelry
from the 1920s drew on the art deco period. The majority of rhinestone
jewelry was made with clear rhinestones.
As the 1920s moved jewelry once again became bolder. Dramatic color was
in style. Designer Coco Chanel was an integral figure in the setting
the stage for jewelry of this era.
During the 1930s during the depression labor intensive fashion was no
longer feasible. While the world was in turmoil, jewelry represented an
affordable comfort to many women. Inexpensive costume jewelry could be
used to revitalize an old outfit. The industry began to produce bright
colored enamel pieces accented with rhinestones. Dogs, birds, or cats
with a rhinestone eye were common place.
The jewelry during the 1940s once again became big and bold with
rhinestones being produced in every imaginable color, large stones set
on large bold settings was the norm.
By the 1950s there were two very distinct looks – elegant and
sophisticated for the more mature woman, and casual and fun for the
younger woman. The 1950s saw jewelry made completely from rhinestones.
For the younger woman were flirty pieces, for the older woman
sophisticated elegance. Rhinestone parures became extremely popular.
In 1953 the aurora borealis rhinestone was introduced to the market with its fabulous array of color. It was an instant hit!
By 1960s women were wearing very functional clothing. By the late 1960s
the hippie fashions were extremely popular with their roots tied to
Mother Nature. Tie dyed shirts, long flowing skirts, frayed jeans were
everywhere. This generation had no interest in rhinestone jewelry.
By the mid 1970s the punk look had been born and the rhinestone was
revitalized. It was the disco movement brought the rhinestone back to
center stage. The disco movement turned into the club movement during
the 1980s and rhinestone jewelry continued to gain popularity.
Since the 1970s rhinestone have remained main stream in the jewelry
world. They continue to gain popularity and today there is a style to
suit almost every ones needs. There is rhinestone jewelry which is
perfect for a bride, rhinestone jewelry for a prom girl, rhinestone
jewelry for the young and fun crowd, the business woman, the
sophisticated woman, and the mature woman. Beautiful pieces of
rhinestone jewelry adorn almost every woman’s accessories.
If trends are an indication of the rhinestones future, it appears to
have a vibrant healthy life ahead of it. Pleasing for most woman with a
fashion sense who instantly recognize the value and beauty of
rhinestones!
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over 20 years, providing affordable estate jewelry, and a wealth of
information on jewelry, fashion, designers, and beauty with on staff
industry professionals. Please visit us at Estate Jewelry International.